Necklace | Rainbow colors vintage glass beads, hematine, artisan sterling clasp, unisex design

Notes on this piece: This necklace was inspired by goimagine's Seeing Rainbows Maker Challenge. I started with two ideas — to design a necklace with a rainbow color sequence, and to donate net proceeds to an organization that provides services to LBGTQ+ youth.

I'd completed a rainbow color sequence semi-precious stone and artisan lampwork necklace set before this design, purchasing beads specifically for that project. This necklace was designed with beads on hand from my collection, focusing on my favorite Japanese mid-century round Cherry Brand beads. It came together with relative ease, using four different hematine beads as spacers and applying the 3, 4, 6, 7 patterns I often use.

Then things got complicated. :) My first completed necklace was beautiful, but I decided it was too long (24") for the unisex design I intended. I re-strung a shorter version, but found a sequence error. I re-strung it, dropped a bead and replaced it with the wrong red bead. I re-strung it again and saw that I'd left out a bead. I'm wondering if my first version was the one intended to be... but for now here's version 5.

My designs are inspired by the beads, by their color, shape, size and origin.

I’ve been buying/collecting beads for over 20 years, focusing on early and mid-century glass beads, but including semi-precious and other stones, freshwater pearls, contemporary artisan lampwork and ceramic beads. I work with sterling silver, bronze, or copper clasps and use sterling or gold-filled findings. 

In my first years of bead jewelry design, I had to see and/or touch the beads to know what I wanted. After years of experience, I can confidently shop online (fortunately, during these times) and have a growing list of “go-to” artisans, vendors, and brands for my supplies. 

My design descriptions include a list of “ingredients” used in each design.

Some designs come together quickly and organically. Others are re-worked several times, even if I’ve already attached the clasp with crimp beads and crimp covers and need to completely re-string.

Designs are often “retro-classic” as my OOAK designs are bead-centric with a nod to mid-century costume jewelry, rather than inspired by current fashions in jewelry designs or color trends. Add a pinch of whimsy and my personal take on color palettes.

I work on felted bead boards to calculate the length of each necklace (usually “matinée” length 20-24”) and to hold the beads I’ve selected for my design. Sometimes I change my mind mid-design and put away many of the beads I’ve been working with, then search for or order others. I usually work with 49-strand .018 or .019 gauge bead wire, which allows stringing back under a half-inch or so of beads after the crimp bead and clasp are attached. I work by creating my design on the wire, rather than try to lay out the complete pattern, as it’s important to see how the beads will hang and to pick compatible spacer beads.

I use sterling or gold-filled ear wires and headpins, and often create “mis-matched” earring pairs.

The weight and length of each necklace are listed in case you have a preference for lighter or more substantial pieces. (I enjoy both.)